My dad loved dining at the House of Prime Rib, that San Francisco classic located on Van Ness Avenue. He started going when he was in the Navy, and became friends with the host, Gus, who was a fixture for decades. My dad always ordered his meat “English cut,” meaning thin slices, but his favorite part was the Yorkshire pudding the waiter added to the plate. The name is deceiving — it’s not a pudding but rather like a popover; a batter baked in the oven that becomes crisp and brown on the edges and stays soft in the center. It’s perfect for sopping up gravy, particularly beef, and deceptively simple to make.
Because my dad loved Yorkshire pudding, I decided to make it for Christmas one year, and it became a family tradition, along with prime rib, my “best mashed potatoes ever” (find the recipe here), gravy from the drippings, and Brussels sprouts “poached” in butter (a favorite vegetable in my household). If you’re not a mashed potato fan, buy a bag of organic mixed baby potatoes, roll them in olive oil, and roast them whole in the pan with the roast (don’t add them until the last 40 minutes of cook time).
To make Yorkshire pudding, you can use muffin or popover tins to produce individual portions. My preference is the one-dish method, sliced to order tableside, using a 9-inch square nonstick ceramic-coated enamel pan like the one by Caraway (which is nontoxic, PTFE, and PFOA free), or one like my mom’s classic Le Creuset 9-inch square stoneware baking dish.
As for buying a prime rib, spend the money and get a good one: pasture raised and humanely treated. I feel like a hypocrite saying this, because I love animals, but if you’re going eat meat, make sure you know where it came from and how it was cared for. Most butcher shops and high-end grocery stores allow you to buy a hand-cut roast by the number of ribs, usually one rib per guest.
For a real splurge, go for Japanese beef like Akaushi, one of the four cattle breeds of Wagyu famed for superior marbling and tenderness (that’s what we ordered this year). Avedano’s (270 Cortland Avenue, San Francisco, 94110) carries it but always call ahead for availability.
You can do a boneless roast, but it’s not nearly as impressive — plus, the ribs make for a great broth later. If you’re uncomfortable cutting through bone, ask for the roast to be “cradled and tied” and the butcher will partially debone and retie the ribs.
I make a version of the secret “pink horseradish” from House of Prime Rib — it used to be a staple, but now you have to ask for it — and have included the recipe below, along with a simple gravy crafted from the pan drippings.
If you don’t like Brussels sprouts, switch them out for a salad, some slow-braised collard greens, or creamed spinach.
For dessert this year, I’m making my mom’s not-too-sweet olive oil Bundt cake, dressed up with a Meyer lemon and lavender honey drizzle. You can switch up the honey or leave the drizzle off and simply dust the top with powdered sugar. Olive oil cake? Italians bake with olive oil all time. You’ll want to buy extra virgin olive oil for cooking. My favorite is Graza “Sizzle,” made with peak-harvest olives that give it a smoother, mellower flavor. It’s available in most markets, including Costco, or if you use as much olive oil as I do, you can order via “subscribe and save” on their website.
These recipes work equally well for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, or New Year’s Day.
Perfect Prime Rib Roast
Serves 4–6
Note: The meat must be brought to room temperature before roasting or it will not cook evenly. This will take from 2 to 4 hours, so plan accordingly. Cooking time will vary based upon the size of your roast; estimate 12 minutes per pound for roasting time.
1 prime standing rib roast, room temperature
2 tablespoons butter at room temperature
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Pat the roast dry. Smear the cut ends only of the roast with the butter (you can also add herbs or garlic to the butter). Do not salt the outside as it will draw out moisture.
Place the roast, ribs down or fat side up, uncovered, in a heavy stainless-steel roasting pan. (The rib bones are a natural rack.) Sear the roast for 15 minutes at 450 degrees, then turn the oven down to 325 degrees for the remainder of the cooking time. Every 30 minutes, baste the cut ends of the roast with the fat in the bottom of the pan.
About 45 minutes before the estimated end of the cook time, begin checking the internal temperature with a good instant-read digital thermometer (I use the ThermoWorks Thermapen — they’re expensive but worth it for their accuracy). Insert the thermometer in the thickest part of the roast, not resting in fat or touching bone.
Cook until meat reaches an internal temperature of 120 degrees. Remove to a heavy-duty cutting board with a deep enough well to hold the juices. Cover loosely with aluminum foil and let sit approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Do not skip the resting stage. Cutting into the meat too early will cause a significant loss of juice. The roast will continue to cook as it sets, rising to 125 to 130 degrees (medium rare). While roast rests, make gravy from the pan drippings (recipe follows).
Using a sharp carving knife, slice between the bones. Serve with House of Prime Rib secret pink whipped horseradish.
House of Prime Rib ‘Secret’ Pink Whipped Horseradish
Makes 1 cup
1 cup whipping cream
¼ teaspoon Lawry’s Seasoned Salt
2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, well drained
Hot sauce (such as Frank’s or Tabasco) to your desired heat level
Beet juice for added color (I use a beet horseradish)
Using a stand or hand mixer, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Fold in seasoned salt, horseradish, and hot sauce until well mixed. Cover and place in refrigerator until ready to serve.
Yorkshire Pudding
Serves 4–6
Note: this batter must be chilled for at least two hours.
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
3 eggs
¾ cup milk
½ cup pan drippings or vegetable oil
Mix the flour and salt together in a medium-sized bowl. In smaller bowl, beat together eggs and milk until frothy. Stir in dry ingredients until just incorporated. Refrigerate mixture for two hours (optional).
Heat oven to 450 degrees (turn up the temperature after you remove the meat to rest).
Pour pan drippings or vegetable oil into an oven-safe 9-inch square baking dish. Put dish in oven for about 30 seconds, or until drippings (or oil) are just smoking. Remove dish from oven (carefully), pour in batter, and return dish to oven. Bake until puffed up and brown on the edges, about 20 minutes. Serve immediately.
Pan Drippings Gravy
Makes 4 cups
6 tablespoons pan drippings
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 cups of low sodium beef or vegetable broth
Place roasting pan over two stove burners over medium heat. Skim and discard any excess fat from the juices in the roasting pan. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the dark drippings and any crunchy bits from the sides and bottom of the pan.
In a separate container with a lid, shake together all-purpose flour and broth to make a slurry. When the pan drippings are lightly bubbling, slowly add the slurry mixture, stirring constantly with a wire whisk. If it starts to thicken, immediately stop adding the remaining slurry. You may not need to use all the slurry, depending on the amount of drippings that were left in the roasting pan.
If lumps develop, you should be able to use a wire whisk to remove them. You can also pass the finished gravy through your tamis or fine mesh sieve. If your gravy is too thick, add additional broth, stirring constantly. Season to taste with salt and pepper, pour into a gravy boat, and serve tableside.
Olive Oil Cake with Meyer Lemon Lavender Honey Drizzle
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup of extra virgin olive oil for cooking (I use Graza “Sizzle”)
2 cups sugar (1½ for less sweetness)
4 large eggs (from a local farm, or look for pasture raised in the store)
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 Meyer lemon zested and juiced
1 cup full fat Greek yogurt (you can use low fat, but the cake won’t be as fluffy)
Meyer Lemon Lavender Honey Drizzle
1 tablespoon lavender honey (found in specialty shops or online)
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon juice
1 tablespoon whole milk
1 teaspoon Meyer lemon zest
1 ½ cups powdered sugar
Instructions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a Bundt cake pan with olive oil or cooking spray and set aside. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl; set aside.
In a large bowl, cream together the olive oil, sugar, eggs, vanilla, lemon juice and zest until well combined. Add the yogurt and flour and mix until well combined.
Pour the batter into to prepared bundt pan and bake for 55–60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean (start checking at 45 minutes). Cool the cake on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then remove from pan and cool completely.
To make the glaze, whisk together the honey, lemon juice, milk, and zest until well combined. Add in the powdered sugar and mix to combine. Drizzle over the cooled cake.
Notes
This cake is great to make ahead and tastes even better the next day. Store covered at room temperature for up to three days or refrigerate for up to a week.